Leathercraft Catalog

鞣製革的類型 TANNING PROCESSES 鉻鞣革 Chrome-Tanned 使用含鉻鹽鞣製液鞣製而成的皮革，手感柔 軟、顏色鮮豔亮麗。此類皮革通常用於傢俱、 製衣與製鞋。 This process uses chromium sulfate, results in soft and supple leather. This tanning process allows for more vibrant colors and a soft hand. Mostly used for upholstery, garments or footwear. 環保革 Eco-Tanned 環保革製成使用環保鞣製液，減少對環境造 成的汙染。本色顏色較白，適合染成較淺的顏 色。 Eco-tanning uses new tanning agents that are sustainable to the environment. Tanned leather tends to be lighter in color and great for dyeing light colors. 植鞣革 Vegetable-Tanned 使用天然材料，是最古老、環保的鞣製方式。 硬挺的特質，適合製作鞋底、皮帶、機車包、 馬鞍等。未經防水處理的本色植鞣革可雕刻壓 印，具有隨時間逐漸變為焦糖色的特性。 Vegetable-tanned leather is produced using ingredients found in nature. It is the most environmentally responsible tanning process, results in better wear and desirable patina appearance over time. Excellent for carving, tooling and embossing. 常用的皮革術語 COMMON LEATHER TERMINOLOGIES ◉苯染 Aniline: 使用透明染劑染透的皮革。因為染劑是透明的，皮 革上所有的天然紋路會顯現出來，因此只有最上等 的皮革才能做這樣的處理。 Dyes and finishes that contain no pigment, penetrates all the way through. Because the finish is transparent, the natural characteristics of the leather will shine through, only the best quality full grain and top grain leathers can be used. Aniline leathers are considered to be the highest quality. ◉油皮 Pull-up: 油皮在製革的過程加入了油、臘與染劑，製成的皮 革當拉扯或延展時，拉扯區域的皮革顏色會變淺， 是皮革中的高檔貨。 This leather has been treated with oils and waxes, when pulled or stretched, the finishes becomes lighter in those areas. ◉荔枝紋 Pebble Grain: 頭層皮經過特殊處理，讓皮面看起來像有許多小鵝 卵石的紋路效果。 Treated full grain leather so the surface resembles many small pebbles. ◉半苯染 Semi-Aniline Leather: 苯染過的皮革，再上一層染劑，讓顏色更均勻，表面 保護效果更佳。 Leather treated with aniline dye first, then a matching pigment layer is added to even out the color and add protection. ◉鼓染 Drum Dyed: 這是一種皮革著色處理方式。皮革在一個如鼓的染 色槽裡，沉浸於染料中，並不斷翻轉來達到最佳的 滲透效果。 This is a leather coloring process that immerses leather in dye and tumble it in a rotating drum. This results in maximum dye penetration. ◉生皮 Rawhide: 只有經去毛與乾燥處理而未經鞣製的皮革。非常堅 韌硬挺，可浸泡於水中讓生皮柔軟，便於製作。適 合製作鼓面、燈罩或編織用途。 Hide with hair removed, dried and has not been tanned. It’s very tough and stiff, but can become soft again when soaked in water. Excellent for making drumheads, lamp shades or braiding. ◉壓紋皮革 Embossed Leather: 皮革經由高壓處理，表面呈現壓紋或圖樣。 The surface of the leather has been stamped with design or pattern using high pressure. ◉磨面皮 Nubuck: 磨面皮的原料取自於頭層皮，皮革表面經過反覆的 打磨，產生出絨狀的表面。與二層皮比較起來更耐 用、更厚，擁有更細的表面紋理。 Unlike common suede made of split leather, nubuck is made from top grain that has been sanded and buffed to produce a velvet-like surface. It’s more durable, thicker and has finer grain than suede. ◉仿古皮 Distressed or Antiqued Leather: 這種皮革通常用透染的方式先染淺色再染深色，此 種染色方式會強調皮面上的傷痕、皺褶與天然紋 路，來模仿經年累月使用後的效果。 Leather that is usually dyed with a darker color over a lighter color to create rich highlights, and results in an artificial aged appearance. This process emphasizes any natural markings on the hide.